LABORATORY EXPERIMENTS ON GENERATION OF LONG WAVES IN THE SURF ZONE

Akio Okayasu, Teruki Matsumoto, Yasuyuki Suzuki

Abstract


Laboratory experiments were performed to investigate generation of long waves in the surf zone. Amplitude of long waves generated by timevarying breaking points was found to be nearly same as that of incoming bounded long wave. The generated long waves showed phase difference with the incoming long waves. The difference of the phases reached to 3/4 7r through 7r at the shoreline.

Keywords


laboratory experiment; wave generation; long waves; surf zone

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