NONLINEAR WAVE DYNAMICS IN THE SURF ZONE

O.R. Sorensen, P.A. Madsen, H.A. Schaffer

Abstract


In this paper we shall study and model various nonlinear interaction processes in the surf zone on the basis of a two-dimensional time-domain depth-integrated Boussinesq type model, which features the possibility of wave breaking and a moving boundary at the shoreline. Phenomena to be studied include breaking and runup of bicromatic wave groups on gentle slopes with emphasis on the evolution of surface elevations, the shoreline motion and the low frequency waves generated and released in the surf zone. The model results are compared with laboratory experiments by Mase (1994), and the agreement is generally found to be very good. Special details in the surf beats are investigated, e.g. the motion of the breaker line and of the shoreline, change of wave group modulation through the surf zone, and the sensitivity of surf beats to group frequency, modulation rate and bottom slope.

Keywords


surf zone; wave dynamics; nonlinear waves

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