MONITORING AND MODELLING ON SHALLOW WATER WAVE PROPAGATIONS IN "EL SALER" BEACH

Jose C. Santas, Jose M. de la Pena, Jose Lozano

Abstract


Physical modelling with 3-D basins have mainly been used in relation with wind wave propagation, which input are irregular and multidirectional trains obtained from a directional system in the prototype, to test harbour structures . Very few applications are been developed to test the spectral propagation over a beach from deep waters to surf zone neither to study the relationship between spectral directional characteristic of time series obtained in prototype and in the basin. The aim of this study has been the study of the propagation of real data obtained in El Saler beach along the beach slope towards the bar and compare these results with real data, employing the 3-D basin , with the real beach profile. These data have been obtained from the Monitoring Campaign developed by CEDEX, partially sponsored by the contract MAST2, CT92-0027, G8M project, on El Saler Beach.

Keywords


shallow water; wave propagation; El Saler Beach

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