TRANSITION OF STOCHASTIC CHARACTERISTICS OF WAVES IN THE NEARSHORE ZONE

David J. Robillard, Michel K. Ochi

Abstract


The purpose of this paper is twofold. The first is to clarify the transition of stochastic characteristics of waves; in particular, the transition from a Gaussian to non-Gaussian random process in the nearshore zone as a function of water depth and sea severity, and the second is to develop a method to estimate the non- Gaussian properties of waves at a specified water depth in the nearshore zone from knowledge of the sea severity in deep water. The probability density function applicable to non-Gaussian waves in finite water depth is applied to more than 1,000 samples of wave data obtained by the Coastal Engineering Research Center, U.S. Army, during the ARSLOE Project. From analysis of the data, the limiting water depth is defined below which wind-generated waves can no longer be considered Gaussian for a given sea severity. Furthermore, by presenting the parameters of the probability density function as a function of water depth and sea severity, it is possible to estimate the sea condition at a specified water depth in the nearshore zone from knowledge of sea severity in deep water.

Keywords


nearshore zone; stochastic characteristics; wave transition

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