COMPUTATION OF THE NEAR-BOTTOM KINEMATICS OF SHOALING WAVES

Abstract

Two practical formulations from Isobe and Horikawa (1982) and Swart and Crowley (1988) are tested against laboratory measurements: seven cases with monochromatic waves and two cases with random waves. It appears that the Isobe and Horikawa formulation can be used with confidence over a large range of wave conditions except in the surf zone when monochromatic waves are considered. The covocoi'dal theory from Swart and Crowley provides a more comprehensive description of wave properties but abnormal results have been noticed in a few cases. The use of one representative wave height and period in random waves may lead to an underestimation of velocity moments with low steepness waves.