MEASUREMENTS OF WAVE BREAKING IN THE UK COASTAL RESEARCH FACILITY

Howard N. Southgate, Stuart Stripling

Abstract


Many experiments have been carried out on wave breaking in the past, but these have mainly been for regular, normally-incident waves. This paper describes experiments in the UK Coastal Research Facility in which over a hundred separate tests were carried out, covering regular, random, normally-incident, angled and multidirectional waves. Measurements were made of wave parameters as the waves underwent breaking in shallow water on a 1:20 slope. Analysis of the data to determine the wave breaking criterion, y, for three random wave categories is presented.

Keywords


wave breaking; breaking measurements; UK Coastal Research Facility

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