A PARAMETRIC MODEL FOR RANDOM WAVE DEFORMATION BY BREAKING ON ARBITRARY BEACH PROFILES

Hyuck-Min Kweon, Yoshimi Goda

Abstract


The process of wave energy dissipation after breaking has been investigated with a number of random wave tests. To obtain the data for wave breaking and its deformation, experiments have been conducted by utilizing a horizontal step adjoining to a combined slope of 1/20 and 1/10. After breaking, the wave height decreases by dissipation but attains a certain value at some distance from the breaking point. Experimental results show that the stable wave height is not constant but affected considerably by the wave period. The study has yielded a general formulation of stable wave height due to the random wave breaking. A new one-dimensional random wave deformation model is proposed, being coupled with nonlinear shoaling coefficient formula before wave breaking and the new energy dissipation term after breaking. The model is compared with the experimental data, large wave tank data, and field data. It predicts well the wave height deformation and the change of mean water level before and after wave breaking on arbitrary bottom profiles.

Keywords


beach profile; parametric model; random wave; wave deformation; wave breaking

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