MODELS OF WAVE HEIGHT AND FRACTION OF BREAKING WAVES ON A BARRED BEACH

Abstract

Models for wave height and the fraction of breaking waves were developed; the models employ a wave-by-wave approach, in which the shoaling, breaking and reforming of individual waves are calculated. The performance of the models calibrated with experimental data was not satisfied; the fractions of breaking waves estimated by the models were smaller than the values measured over troughs in the field. The models therefore were calibrated and verified with the field data. Furthermore, the validity of the models calibrated with the field data was confirmed by comparison with large-scale experiment data.