EXPERIMENTAL STUDY OF BREAKING WAVES OVER A SHOAL
Abstract
The aim of this paper is to study the transformation of irregular directional waves over a circular shoal. An experimental study has been carried out. The resulting data has been used to test the accuracy of an existing refraction-diffraction model. Model to data comparisons have been carried out for the entire basin region including about 3 shoal diameters downwave of the shoal, with satisfactory results. Several physical processes have been identified which lead to possible disparities in the comparisons.
Keywords
breaking waves; shoal; experimental study
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