WAVE BREAKING AND INDUCED NEARSHORE CIRCULATIONS

Ole R. Sorensen, Hemming A. Schaffer, Per A. Madsen, Rolf Deigaard

Abstract


Wave breaking and wave induced currents are studied in two horizontal dimensions. The wave-current motion is modelled using a set of Boussinesq type equations including the effects of wave breaking and runup. This is done without the traditional splitting of the phenomenon into a wave problem and a current problem. Wave breaking is included using the surface roller concept and runup is simulated by use of a modified slot-technique. In the environment of a plane sloping beach two different situations are studied. One is the case of a rip channel and the other concerns a detached breakwater parallel to the shoreline. In both situations wave driven currents are generated and circulation cells appear. This and many other nearshore physical phenomena are described qualitatively correct in the simulations.

Keywords


wave breaking; nearshore circulation

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