A NUMERICAL SIMULATION OF BEACH EVOLUTION BASED ON A NONLINEAR DISPERSIVE WAVE-CURRENT MODEL

Shinji Sato, Michael B. Kabiling

Abstract


A numerical wave model based on the Boussinesq equation was extended to the computation of two-dimensional wave-current field including diffraction, refraction and wave breaking. The energy dissipation due to wave breaking was modeled by a momentum mixing term using eddy viscosity. Beach deformation was estimated based on the wave-current field simulated in the nearshore region. Energetics-based equations were used to estimate the total sediment transport in the cross-shore and longshore directions. The model applicability was confirmed with laboratory experiments.

Keywords


wave model; numerical simulation; beach evolution

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