EXPERIMENTAL RESULTS OF WAVE TRANSFORMATION ACROSS A SLOPING BEACH

Constantine D. Memos

Abstract


Experiments have been conducted to investigate the transformations of the wave characteristics induced by a uniformly decreasing sea bed. These transformations were recorded on both the frequency and the time domain representations of random wave trains. The coastal zone upwind of severe breaking was studied. Among the findings it is noted the tendency of the spectrum width parameter to decrease at a slowing rate as the waves propagate on shoaling waters. Also, the correlation coefficient between wave heights and periods seems to inversely follow the variations of a measure of the wave heights. A mathematical model has been developed based on existing results for shoaling, wave breaking and decay. This model applicable to a wide area of the surf zone predicts adequately the evolution of the joint probability between wave heights and periods provided by the experimental results.

Keywords


sloping beach; wave transformation

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