PREDICTION OF BEACH PROFILE CHANGE AT MESOSCALE UNDER RANDOM WAVES

Magnus Larson

doi:10.9753/icce.v24.%p

No. 24 (1994), Conference Proceedings

No. 24 (1994)

PREDICTION OF BEACH PROFILE CHANGE AT MESOSCALE UNDER RANDOM WAVES

Conference Proceedings

https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v24.%25p

Published 1994-01-29

Magnus Larson⁺⁻

Magnus Larson

Coastal Engineering Laboratory, Department of Civil Engineering, University of Tokyo

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Keywords

beach profile
profile change
mesescale
random waves

How to Cite

Larson, M. (1994). PREDICTION OF BEACH PROFILE CHANGE AT MESOSCALE UNDER RANDOM WAVES. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(24). https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v24.%p

Abstract

A mesoscale model is presented to calculate the average net cross-shore transport rate and beach profile evolution under random waves. Cross-shore transport formulas for random waves are derived by superimposing the transport from individual waves, which belong to an ensemble that represents the random wave field. The transport relationships for individual waves are based on experiments with monochromatic waves in large wave tanks. The model is validated using beach profile data from the SUPERTANK Laboratory Data Collection Project and three different types of profile evolution events are studied, namely equilibrium erosion with bar formation, berm flooding, and the impact of breaking waves on an offshore mound. Berm flooding includes the erosion of a well-developed summer berm and the erosion of an artificially constructed foredune, and the offshore mound tests encompass narrow- and broad-crested mounds.

https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v24.%25p

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Authors retain copyright and grant the Proceedings right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this Proceedings.

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PREDICTION OF BEACH PROFILE CHANGE AT MESOSCALE UNDER RANDOM WAVES

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