Nobuhisa Kobayashi, Entin A. Karjadi


A horizontally two-dimensional, numerical model is developed for predicting the time-dependent free surface elevation and fluid velocities in the swash and surf zones under obliquely incident waves. The assumptions of shallow water waves with small incident angles are made to simplify the continuity and momentum equations and reduce computational efforts considerably. The developed numerical model allows gradual alongshore variations of the bathymetry and the incident regular or irregular waves at its seaward boundary. The numerical model is compared with available regular wave data of alongshore uniformity as an initial assessment of the model. The wave height, setup and runup are predicted well. The numerical model with the bottom friction factor calibrated previously for swash oscillations predicts the magnitude of longshore current but can not reproduce the longshore current profile probably because it does lot model the transition zone and lateral mixing.


incident waves; oblique waves; swash; wave dynamics

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