PERFORMANCE OF A SPECTRAL WIND-WAVE MODEL IN SHALLOW WATER

Gerbrant Ph. van Vledder, John G. de Ronde, Marcel J.F. Stive

Abstract


A full spectral third-generation wave prediction model has been extended with formulations for surf breaking and nonlinear triad interactions and a first assessment of its performance against shallow water wave data has been examined. The formulation for wave energy loss by surf-breaking in shallow water is based on the expression of Battjes and Janssen (1978), which has heuristically been modified to predict the energy loss per spectral component. The source term for nonlinear triad interactions was taken from Abreu et al. (1992). Results of the extended model have been compared against laboratory and field data. The results of the model computations indicate that surf breaking and triad interactions are important processes in the coastal zone. Surf breaking is mainly responsible for the decay of wave energy, whereas triad interactions are mainly responsible for changes in the mean wave period. The applicability of the Abreu formulation is limited and needs further attention.

Keywords


spectral model; wind wave; shallow water

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