RUN-UP OF IRREGULAR WAVES ON GENTLY SLOPING BEACH

Yoshimishi Yamamoto, Katsutoshi Tanimoto, Karunarathna G. Harshinie

Abstract


Irregular wave run-up on beaches has been studied on the basis of laboratory and field data, which confirmed that long-term wave run-up corresponding to surf beat (or infragravity waves) appears in case of a sea bottom slope gentler than about 1/20. Moreover analytical and numerical models to calculate surf beat caused by wave groups are investigated, and empirical and numerical models to predict the long period wave run-up are proposed.

Keywords


sloping beach; gentle slope; irregular waves; run up

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