TIME DOMAIN MODELLING OF WAVE BREAKING, RUNUP, AND SURF BEATS

P.A. Madsen, O.R. Sorensen, H.A. Schaffer

Abstract


In this paper we study wave breaking and runup of regular and irregular waves, and the generation of surf beats. These phenomena are investigated numerically by using a time-domain primary-wave resolving model based on Boussinesq type equations. As compared with the classical Boussinesq equations the ones adopted here allow for improved linear dispersion characteristics, and wave breaking is incorporated by using a roller concept for spilling breakers. The swash zone is represented by incorporating a moving shoreline boundary condition and radiation of short and long period waves from the offshore boundary is allowed by the use of absorbing sponge layers. The model results presented include wave height decay, mean water setup, depth-averaged undertow, shoreline oscillations and the generation and release of low frequency waves.

Keywords


surf beat; wave breaking; run up; domain modelling

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