WAVE BREAKING UNDER STORM CONDITION

Abstract

The effects of strong wind on wave breaking were discussed with the field data. At around U =23m/s the maximum wave steepness of 0.034 was obtained. At the wind velocity of more than 23m/s, the wave steepness becomes small once because reformed waves which were already broken at the offshore were measured. This corresponds with the changes of the ratio of wave breaking. The relationship between the mean period of SIWEH and significant wave period was made clear. It was found that pulsating behavior of undertow influences wave breaking in a shallow water.