DIFFERENCE BETWEEN WAVES ACTING ON STEEP AND GENTLE BEACHES

Kazumasa Katoh

Abstract


The physical difference of beach erosions between on the steep and on the gentle beaches has been discussed, based on the field data and the theory of generation of the infragravity waves. As a result, it is shown that the incident waves are predominant in the wave run-up phenomena on the steeper beach, while on the gentler beach the infragravity waves are predominant.

Keywords


steep beach; gentle beach

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