VERTICAL VARIATIONS OF FLUID VELOCITIES AND SHEAR STRESS IN SURF ZONES

Daniel T. Cox; Nobuhisa Kobayashi; Akio Okayasu

doi:10.9753/icce.v24.%p

No. 24 (1994), Conference Proceedings

No. 24 (1994)

VERTICAL VARIATIONS OF FLUID VELOCITIES AND SHEAR STRESS IN SURF ZONES

Conference Proceedings

https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v24.%25p

Published 1994-01-29

Daniel T. Cox⁺⁻
Nobuhisa Kobayashi⁺⁻
Akio Okayasu⁺⁻

Daniel T. Cox

Center for Applied Coastal Research, University of Delaware

Nobuhisa Kobayashi

Center for Applied Coastal Research, University of Delaware

Akio Okayasu

Department of Civil Engineering, Yokohama National University

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Keywords

surf zone
shear stress
vertical variation
fluid velocity

How to Cite

Cox, D. T., Kobayashi, N., & Okayasu, A. (1994). VERTICAL VARIATIONS OF FLUID VELOCITIES AND SHEAR STRESS IN SURF ZONES. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(24). https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v24.%p

Abstract

Detailed laboratory measurements are made of the velocity fluctuations to investigate the processes of the turbulence generation, advection, diffusion and dissipation in the surf zone. An order of magnitude analysis of the transport equation of the turbulent kinetic energy using the normalization adopted by Kobayashi and Wurjanto (1992) indicates an approximate local equilibrium of turbulence for shallow water waves in the surf zone. Estimates are found for common surf zone turbulence parameters. The calibrated values are used to show that the eddy viscosity varies gradually over depth and is nearly time-invariant and that the local equilibrium of turbulence is a reasonable approximation for spilling waves in the inner surf zone.

https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v24.%25p

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Authors retain copyright and grant the Proceedings right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this Proceedings.

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VERTICAL VARIATIONS OF FLUID VELOCITIES AND SHEAR STRESS IN SURF ZONES

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