Kazumasa Katoh, Shin-ichi Yanagishima


To investigate the mechanism of beach erosion in a storm, a daily survey of beach profile and the measurement of infragravity waves near the shoreline have been carried out in a field during two and half years. Analyses of these data reveal that the infragravity waves and the level rising of water table play a important role in the berm erosion in a storm. The infragravity waves run up beyond the berm crest to the backshore. The swashed water permeates into the beach, which contributes to a high water table. The permeated water rises to the surface of foreshore, where the beach is eroded by the backwash of infragravity waves.


erosion; berm formation; berm erosion

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