DISTRIBUTION OF UNDERTOW AND LONG-WAVE COMPONENT VELOCITY DUE TO RANDOM WAVES

Akio Okayasu, Hiroyuki Katayama

Abstract


Laboratory measurements were performed on cross-shore velocity variations in the surf zone caused by random waves by using a laser Doppler velocimeter. Two-dimensional distributions of undertow and long-wave component velocity were obtained on a uniform slope bed and a bar-type beach. A model was presented to estimate undertow distribution due to random waves on an arbitrary beach topography.

Keywords


undertow; random waves; long wave; wave velocity

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