BREAKPOINT-FORCED AND BOUND LONG WAVES IN THE NEARSHORE: A MODEL COMPARISON

Jeffrey H. List

Abstract


A finite-difference model is used to compare long wave amplitudes arising from two group-forced generation mechanisms in the nearshore: long waves generated at a time-varying breakpoint and the shallow-water extension of the bound long wave. Plane beach results demonstrate that the strong frequency selection in the outgoing wave predicted by the breakpoint-forcing mechanism may not be observable in field data due to this wave's relatively small size and its predicted phase relation with the bound wave. Over a bar/trough nearshore, it is shown that a strong frequency selection in shoreline amplitudes is not a unique result of the time-varying breakpoint model, but a general result of the interaction between topography and any broad-banded forcing of nearshore long waves.

Keywords


long waves; bounded wabes; model comparison; breakpoint-forced waves

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