LOW FREQUENCY WAVES IN THE SURF ZONE

Gary Watson, D. Howell Peregrine

Abstract


The generation of low-frequency waves (LFW, also known as 'infragravity waves') within a two-dimensional surf zone is investigated numerically using a short-wave resolving model. In this simplified model, based on the nonlinear shallow-water equations, breaking waves are represented by 'bores', at which there are jumps in both water depth and velocity. Some idealized trains of modulated waves are then used to investigate how LFW may be generated by forcing within the surf zone, as opposed to the mechanisms of bound wave reflection and moving break point forcing. In this way, the process of LFW generation may be examined in some detail. The model is also compared with some measurements of irregular waves in a flume: good agreement is obtained.

Keywords


surf zone; low frequency waves

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