FIELD OBSERVATION OF SURF BEATS OUTSIDE THE SURF ZONE

Tsunehiro Sekimoto, Takuzo Shimizu, Kosuke Kondo, Yasuhiro Kubo

Abstract


Field observations of waves were conducted inside and outside a harbor in order to study the behavior of surf beats. From the observations, it is confirmed that surf beats propagate as bounded long waves at depths of 13 to 15m, whereas they behave as free waves in the harbor. It is found that the amplitude of bounded long waves become 20% of the ordinary-wave amplitude when the ordinary-waves height is 5 m.

Keywords


surf zone; surf beat; field observation

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