FIELD VERIFICATION OF NUMERICAL MODELS FOR CALCULATION OF NEARSHORE WAVE FIELD

Takuzo Shimizu, Akiyuki Ukai, Masahiko Isobe

Abstract


Field applicabilities of both the parabolic equation model and the energy flux equation model are verified through comaprisons with field data. The results show that the parabolic equation model has fairly good accuracy for estimating the wave height distribution of the actual wave field over a complex bottom topography, but the transformation of directional wave spectra cannot be reproduced satisfactorily in the surf zone. It is also found that the energy flux equation model is applicable for practical use although its basic equation has a shortcoming of not taking into account the diffraction in a strict sense.

Keywords


numerical model; wave field; field verification

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