VARIATION OF POTENTIAL AND KINETIC WAVE ENERGY IN THE SURF ZONE

Koichiro Iwata, Takashi Tomita

Abstract


This paper is to investigate experimentally variation of the potential and kinetic wave energy in the surf zone'. First, a cantilever-type velocimeter is newly devised to measure water particle velocities in an air-entrained water body above as well as below the wave trough. Laboratory experiments are carried out, and it is revealed that the kinetic wave energy is larger than the potential one and that some of the potential wave energy can be transferred to the kinetic one at the early stage of wave breaking.

Keywords


surf zone; wave energy; potential energy; kinetic energy

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