WAVE SETUP ON BEACHES AND IN RIVER ENTRANCES

David J. Hanslow, Peter Nielsen

Abstract


This paper investigates the phenomenon of wave setup both on beaches and within river entrances. Field measurements of the mean water surface through the Brunswick River Entrance on the North Coast of NSW, Australia and on the beach immediately south of the entrance are presented for a variety of incident wave conditions. These include wave heights up to 4m (Deepwater RMS). Data collected show very little setup in the river entrance even though wave breaking occurs across the entrance under relatively small wave conditions. At the same time significant wave setup was measured on the adjacent beach. This resulted in the super-elevation of the beach shoreline level above the mean water level of the adjacent river. This super-elevation has been observed to result in large scour holes as the water finds its way through the entrance training walls.

Keywords


setup; river entrance

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