DIRECTIONAL NEARSHORE WAVE PROPAGATION OVER A RIP CHANNEL: AN EXPERIMENT

Luc Hamm

Abstract


The aim of these tests was to study wave propagation on a beach, including the surf zone, and nearshore circulation produced by breakers in the presence of a rip channel. The tests were carried out in a multidirectional wave tank. The initial series of tests concerned the case of a plane beach sloping at 1 in 30. The second series was performed with a rip channel excavated in the beach. Conventional wave measurements were taken at 50 different points. Measurements of the multidirectional waves and rip current were taken at 7 points along the channel centre line. During the tests, various types of wave (monochromatic, random monodirectional and multidirectional) were tested and the results obtained were compared with identical starting conditions.

Keywords


rip channel; wave propagation; directional propagation

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