TRANSFORMATION OF WAVE CREST PATTERN IN SHOALING WATER

Yoshimi Goda

Abstract


Spatial distributions of wave crests are examined through numerical simulations of directional random sea surface. As the directional spreading of wave energy becomes narrow, the wave crests become long and the spread of individual crest directions become narrow. Simulations are extended to waves propagating into a planar beach. The areas of wave breaking are identified as the zone of surface elevation higher than the breaking threshold. The lateral spreading speed of breakers is analyzed from consecutive scenes of breaker crest patterns. It is about 30% of the forward advance speed of breakers.

Keywords


wave transformation; wave crest; shoaling

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