IRREGULAR WAVE TRANSFORMATION PROCESSES IN SURF AND SWASH ZONES

Daniel T. Cox; Nobuhisa Kobayashi; Andojo Wurjanto

doi:10.9753/icce.v23.%p

No. 23 (1992), Conference Proceedings

No. 23 (1992)

IRREGULAR WAVE TRANSFORMATION PROCESSES IN SURF AND SWASH ZONES

Conference Proceedings

https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v23.%25p

Published 1992-01-29

Daniel T. Cox⁺⁻
Nobuhisa Kobayashi⁺⁻
Andojo Wurjanto⁺⁻

Daniel T. Cox

Center for Applied Coastal Research, Department of Civil Engineering, University of Delaware

Nobuhisa Kobayashi

Center for Applied Coastal Research, Department of Civil Engineering, University of Delaware

Andojo Wurjanto

Department of Civil Engineering, Bandung Institute of Technology

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Keywords

surf zone
swash zone
irregular wave
wave transformation

How to Cite

Cox, D. T., Kobayashi, N., & Wurjanto, A. (1992). IRREGULAR WAVE TRANSFORMATION PROCESSES IN SURF AND SWASH ZONES. Coastal Engineering Proceedings, 1(23). https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v23.%p

Abstract

A frequency-domain model is developed for elucidating the nonlinear transformation processes of the Fourier amplitudes and phases of normally incident random waves in surf and swash zones. The verticallyintegrated continuity and momentum equations which have been used to describe a turbulent bore on a beach are rearranged to derive the equations expressing the cross-shore variations of the Fourier components of normally incident random waves. The derived equations are solved numerically using forcing terms computed from a previously developed time-domain model. The frequencydomain model attempts to quantify the importance of the nonlinear forcing due to the cross-shore variations of instantaneous radiation stress and bottom shear stress as well as the seaward boundary condition related to incoming low frequency waves for generating two-dimensional surf beat in the surf and swash zones.

https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v23.%25p

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Authors retain copyright and grant the Proceedings right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this Proceedings.

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IRREGULAR WAVE TRANSFORMATION PROCESSES IN SURF AND SWASH ZONES

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