CURRENT-DEPTH REFRACTION AND DIFFRACTION MODEL FOR IRREGULAR WATER WAVES

Jang Won Chae, Shin Taek Jeong

Abstract


A numerical model is presented for the prediction of combined refraction-diffraction of waves propagating in the region of slowly varying current and topography. For steady waves, two elliptic-type model equations are derived from the mild-slope equation which can be solved in a similar way to an initial value problem without stability restriction. Therefore, the present model appears to be an efficient tool for irregular wave propagation problem in a large coastal area. Some examples of numerical computations are given for the cases concerning wave-current interaction on a sloping beach and over a mound.

Keywords


irregular waves; refraction model; diffraction model

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