BAR/TROUGH EFFECTS ON WAVE HEIGHT PROBABILITY DISTRIBUTIONS AND ENERGY LOSSES IN SURF ZONES

Maolong Cai, David R. Basco, Joe Baumer

Abstract


Laboratory measurements of irregular wave heights across a bar/trough beach profile are being studied to develop improved probability distributions including the subset of breaking waves. The energy dissipation in breaking waves modeled as a periodic bore is inversely proportional to the wave period and this may explain why the bore model appears to underestimate measured average energy dissipation rates. The study is ongoing and preliminary results for one wave period are presented in this paper.

Keywords


bar; height probability distribution; energy loss; surf zone

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