MODELING OF WAVE-CURRENT INTERACTION AND BEACH CHANGE

Susumu Ohnaka, Akira Watanabe

Abstract


This paper presents a mathematical model of waves, currents and beach change with wave-current interaction. The wave model is based on the time-dependent mild-slope equations extended to a wave-current coexisting field, and is applicable to the computation of wave deformation due to combined effects of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, reflection, breaking and currents. Some examples of numerical computation are shown, and effects of the wave-current interaction on the nearshore waves, currents and beach evolution is discussed. In addition, a simple treatment of obliquely incident wave condition as well as improvement of sediment transport rate formulas are presented.

Keywords


wave/current interaction; beach change; beach modeling

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