### A MODEL FOR BREAKING WAVE IMPACT PRESSURES

#### Abstract

This paper discusses a mathematical model of the large, short-lived pressures brought about by waves breaking against coastal structures. The idea of pressure impulse, P (the integral of pressure with respect to time from the start to the finish of the impact) is used to simplify the equations of ideal incompressible fluid notion. P satisfies Laplace's equation in a domain which is the mean position of the wave during the very short time of impact. We solve analytically a two-dimensional boundary - value problem, which models an idealized wave striking a vertical wall. Expressions are derived for the impulse on the wall, the peak pressure distribution, and the change in fluid velocity due to impact. The results are insensitive to the shape of the wave far from the wall. The results agree with some experimental measurements, from the literature.

#### Keywords

pressure; wave impact; impact pressure; breaking wave; wave model

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