SPATIAL VARIATION OF WAVE GROUP STATISTICS AND REPRESENTATIVE WAVE-HEIGHTS OF SWELL

Akiyuki Ukai, Takashi Yasuda, Kazunori Ito

Abstract


This study derives a practical equation that can describe the weakly nonlinear waves having an arbitrary spectral form and propagating unidirectionally from deep to shallow water, and carries out the numerical simulation using the equation. Based on the simulated results, some investigations are made on the characteristics of spatial variation of wave group and representative wave-heights in the propagation process.

Keywords


swell; wave group; spatial variation

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