DIRECTIONAL RANDOM WAVES PROPAGATION ON BEACHES

Jose Maria Grassa

Abstract


The paper deals with a method for the simulation of irregular, directional waves over large coastal areas using a linear model based on a energetically equalized discretization of wave spectrum and a parabolic approximation to the Berkhoff equation for wave evolution. A sensitivity analysis based on a comparison with physical model tests gives some ideas about the applicability of the method.

Keywords


wave propagation; random waves; wave direction

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