BORE-LIKE SURF BEAT ON REEF COASTS

Eizo Nakaza, Seiko Tsukayama, Mikio Hino

Abstract


Reef coasts, because the wave height of incoming stormy high waves are extremely dampened by coral reef, have been believed as calm sea areas. However, many coastal structures have actually been damaged by stormy waves dampened by the reef. Surf beat with large wave height was discovered through field observations. The surf beat has been named as 'Bore-like Surf Beat". The wave height and the wave velocity of the Bore-like surf beat is lager than that of individual waves. Numerical simulation taking into account of non-linear effect of surf beat phenomenon on the reef shows good agreement with laboratory data. The main reason of the disasters of coastal structures on the reef coasts is existence of the Bore-like surf beat resonantly excited incoming wave groups.

Keywords


reef; surf beat; bore; bore-like surf beat

Full Text: PDF

Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 License.