VARIATION OF SURF ZONE TURBULENCE IN A WAVE PERIOD

Y. Tada, T. Sakai, E. Obana

Abstract


The phase variation of turbulent intensity in the surf zone during one wave period is discussed. The existing data show a peak near the wave crest phase and a following- gentle decrease. The peak delays downwards. The model by Deigaard et al.(1986) which uses the one equation model for the turbulent kinematic energy transportation explains the above mentioned trend roughly. The vertical convection term has no significant effect on the phase variation. The production term given by Deigaard et al. overestimates the energy production at the water surface by wave breaking.

Keywords


surf zone; wave turbulence; turbulence variation

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