WAVE KINEMATICS IN THE SURFACE ZONE

Abstract

An extensive series of laboratory experiments have been carried out with regular and irregular waves travelling over a horizontal bottom. Velocity measurements of the flow were obtained at numerous vertical positions with major emphasis given to the surface zone. The flow measurements were made possible by use of a custom designed LDV having the special characteristic of being operative very near the free surface. Presented is an overview of the study and some of its majors results.