WAVE KINEMATICS IN THE SURFACE ZONE

James E. Skjelbreia, Alf Torun

Abstract


An extensive series of laboratory experiments have been carried out with regular and irregular waves travelling over a horizontal bottom. Velocity measurements of the flow were obtained at numerous vertical positions with major emphasis given to the surface zone. The flow measurements were made possible by use of a custom designed LDV having the special characteristic of being operative very near the free surface. Presented is an overview of the study and some of its majors results.

Keywords


surface zone; wave kinematics

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