IMPROVED CALCULATION OF THE SHOALING WAVE FIELD

Masataro Hattori, Tetsuyuki Karsuragawa

Abstract


Nonlinear wave theories was improved to describe the asymmetry in time histories of the wave elevation and associated particle velocities under relatively steep nonbreaking waves. The improvement was based on the idea that the asymmetry causes both the amplitude changes of the primary and harmonic Fourier components, and the relative phase shifts between the primary and harmonic components. Relationships between the asymmetry and local wave parameters were prerequisite to the improved calculation , and were derived by using experimental data. The improved calculation proposed was made for a specified local wave condition, without aids of direct numerical simulation techniques. Good agreements of the improved calculation with measurements confirmed applicability of the calculation to the practical use.

Keywords


shoaling; wave field; improved calculation

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