MODELLING SHOALING DIRECTIONAL WAVE SPECTRA IN SHALLOW WATER

James T. Kirby

Abstract


This paper describes the development of a model for the shoaling and refraction of an incident directional spectrum over beach topography. The present model is limited to topography which varies only in the on- offshore direction, but no restriction is made on allowed angles of incidence with respect to the shore-normal direction. The model is verified in comparison to laboratory data for Mach reflection of cnoidal waves from a vertical plane wall. It is shown that the model provides a more accurate representation of the evolving wave field than does an earlier parabolic approximation, using the same laboratory data.

Keywords


shallow water; wave spectra; directional spectra; shoaling

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