FIELD OBSERVATION ON WAVE SET-UP NEAR THE SHORELINE

Shin-ichi Yanagishima, Kazumasa Katoh

Abstract


To understand the actual condition of the abnormal rise of sea water on the beach in a storm, the field observation has been carried out at Hazaki Oceanographical Research Facility for about one year under the comprehensive conditions. The relation between the sea level rising and the external forces such as waves, deviations of atmospheric pressure and the winds are examined. The contribution of the wave set-up on the sea level rising is large, while those of the atmospheric pressure and the wind are small. The observed wave set-up near the shoreline agrees well with the predicted value by the Goda's theory. There are other factors which slightly affect the sea level changing, that is to say, a time lag behind the storm, the ocean currents, and the wave steepness.

Keywords


field observation; set up

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