A MODEL FOR SURF BEAT

P.J. van Leeuwen, J.A. Battjes

Abstract


A model is presented for the generation of low-frequency waves propagating normal to the beach. The input parameters are the bottom profile and the variance spectrum of the incoming wind waves. The model predicts the variance spectrum of the low-frequency waves. Also correlations between e.g. wind wave envelope and low-frequency surface elevation can be calculated. Results of the model are compared to field data.

Keywords


surf beat; surf beat model

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