Marcel J.F. Stive, J.A. Roelvink


Recent progress in the quantitative modelling of the undertow has stimulated the modelling of cross-shore sediment transport. More so than before it seems now possible to attempt the dynamic modelling of beach profile development. Also, integration of dynamic cross-shore sediment transport formulations in horizontally two-dimensional models for watermotion and sediment transport has recently been suggested. This seems to be a first step of integrating depth-averaged 2DH-modelling with 2DV-profile- modelling. Here an overview is given of these developments and the understanding gained sofar of the several current systems and the induced sediment transport and morphology that are found in the situation of random waves normally and obliquely incident on beaches which vary not or only slowly alongshore.


nearly prismatic beach; sediment transport

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