Makoto Ifuku, Tadao Kakinuma


The water particle velocity,the pressure fluctuation and suspended sediment concentration near the bottom were measured in the surf zone. Data were obtained on the mean sediment concentration, phase lag between onshore velocity and suspended sediment concentration. The near-bottom velocity distributions under finite amplitude waves were calculated on the basis of the turbulent boundary layer theory by using timeindependent/ dependent eddy viscosities and Prandtl mixing length theory. The concentrations at reference level were estimated from the Kalkanis' theory using the velocity value at the top of a sand particle and the distributions of suspended sediment concentration were calculated on the basis of the turbulent diffusion theory by using time-independent/ dependent diffusion coefficients. The computed mean values of the suspended sediment concentration agree with those observed by Noda, the authors and Nielsen and those measured by Deigaard et al.. The computed phase lag agrees well with observed by the authors.


surf zone; suspended sediment; sediment concentration

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