BEACH PROFILE CHANGE UNDER VARYING WAVE CLIMATES

Yen Kai, Ren Rushu, Wang Liang

Abstract


In the present paper results of experimental study of two-dimensional transformation of sandy beach under varying wave climates are presented. The varying wave climates were composed of different systems of regular waves exerted one after another on the model beach. Through experiments it was found that sandy beach transformation within surf zone could be expressed by the changes of characteristic point A and characteristic slope tan 13, and that although the expression for beach erosion-accretion criteria is dimensionless, similitude scale effects should still be taken into consideration.

Keywords


wave climate; beach profile; profile change

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