BEACH PROFILE CHANGE: MORPHOLOGY, TRANSPORT RATE, AND NUMERICAL SIMULATION

Magnus Larson, Nicholas C. Kraus, Tsuguo Sunamura

Abstract


An empirically based engineering numerical model is presented for simulating beach profile change in the surf zone produced by waveinduced cross-shore sand transport. The model simulates the dynamics of macroscale profile change, such as the growth and movement of berms and breakpoint bars. Model development was founded on two data sets from large wave tank experiments consisting of 42 cases with different incident wave conditions, median grain size, and initial beach shape. Model predictions are tested with field data, and reasonable agreement is found.

Keywords


beach profile; profile change; beach morphology; transport rate; numerical simulation

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