KINEMATICS OF BREAKING WAVES IN COASTAL REGIONS

William J. Easson, Matthew W.P. Griffiths, Clive A. Greated

Abstract


Waves breaking on various slopes in a wave flume are examined. Plunging and spilling breakers are considered. The parametric results show the consistency of the measurement and the independence of scale. A method is given for predicting the maximum breaking height for a wave of known period in a known depth. The velocity is measured to the crest of the wave and comparisions with numerical and analytical solutions demonstrate the shortcomings of many of the established methods of predicting wave kinematics.

Keywords


breaking waves; wave kinematics

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